interview

Embodying Japanese Aesthetics: The Heart and Craft Behind the Uniform

The attendant uniforms at the Japan Pavilion were designed under the concept of “Embodying Japanese Aesthetics.” Combining functionality with aesthetics, the uniforms reflect a Japanese sense of space based on kimono design and thoughtful use of eco-friendly materials and recycling plans. In this interview, we speak with designer Yuya Nakata about the thought and functionality behind these uniforms, which allow diverse attendants to wear them beautifully and comfortably as they welcome guests.

Tell us a bit about yourself, Mr. Nakata.

Nakata

I’m the creative director of a brand called POSTELEGANT, now in its eighth year. Our Spring/Summer 2025 collection will be presented at Paris Fashion Week and sold in stores both in Japan and abroad. I’ve worked as a designer for BEIGE, an Onward Kashiyama brand, and studied pattern-making through internships in Paris with designers from the former Maison Martin Margiela. My experiences in Japan and Paris have significantly influenced POSTELEGANT.

A male model walks diagonally from the rear. He wears a jacket, a T-shirt, pants, a lightweight charcoal gray scarf, and traditional Japanese setta sandals.
Near the waist of a model wearing a jacket. The belt tied around their waist sways in the wind.

How do Japanese and Parisian approaches to garment making differ?

Nakata

Based on my experiences, I found that Japanese designers often use flat pattern-making, paying meticulous attention to each millimeter. Paris, however, has a tradition of three-dimensional garment making, draping fabric directly on the dress form. Learning the Japanese approach first, I was fascinated by the differences, each with unique strengths.

Looking down from an oblique angle at a female model. She wears, from top down, a cap, a lightweight charcoal gray scarf, and a vest. A bag hangs diagonally over her shoulder.

What is POSTELEGANT’s concept?

Nakata

Our concept is to create pieces that transcend time and place, remaining relevant for years to come.

That seems to resonate with the Japan Pavilion’s theme of “JUNKAN.”

Nakata

Exactly. For example, traditional Japanese clothing, such as kimono, has remained timeless for hundreds of years. I aim to design pieces that people will want to wear 10 or 20 years from now, passing them on instead of discarding them. For instance, the first coat I released for POSTELEGANT is still part of our collection.

  • A portrait of a female model smiling slightly as she looks to the left. A lightweight ivory scarf is tied around her neck.
  • A full-body shot from the same series as the previous photo. On the upper half of her body, the female model wears only a T-shirt, with a bag hanging diagonally from her shoulder.
  • A shot showing the waist up, from the same series as the previous photo.

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What is the concept behind the attendant uniforms at the Japan Pavilion?

Nakata

The concept is “Embodying Japanese Aesthetics.” We aimed to blend functionality with beauty, creating an elegant sense of space inspired by kimono. The single color is charcoal gray, with only the scarf providing an accent. Additionally, we designed the uniforms to be versatile, with adjustable belts and two styles of hats and vests to allow personalization while maintaining a cohesive look.

Looking down from an oblique angle at a male model standing in an abstract space. The man looks into the distance, his hands folded in front of him. He wears, from top down, a hat, a lightweight white scarf, a jacket, and traditional Japanese setta sandals.
The same man as the previous photo walks out from behind a building.

Why did you choose a minimalist structure?

Nakata

The minimalist, mono-material approach—using almost no buttons or zippers—greatly facilitates recycling. Removing metal components, for instance, adds significant steps to the recycling process. This approach draws from kimono, which is an early example of a mono-material garment in Japan.

  • A photo of a male model from the knees up, standing in front of a white wall. He wears, from top down, a hat, a jacket, and a vest.
  • A photo of a male model from the knees up, standing in front of a white wall. He wears, from top down, a hat, a jacket, and a vest. A close-up photo of the uniform, taken near the chest. The model wears a jacket.
  • A photo of the same man as the previous photo, taken close to his chest. The lines of the jacket and vest overlap beautifully to form V-shapes.
  • A photo from the same series as the previous photo, showing the uniform closer to the waist. The center of focus is a belt tied around the waist.

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So that was the intention behind it.

Nakata

Additionally, using a belt instead of buttons allows for easy adjustment, making the fit more adaptable for a wide range of people. Expanding the number of sizes often leads to precise fit issues and unnecessary waste. For this uniform, we calculated carefully and decided on 3 to 4 main sizes—S, M, and L—to accommodate as many people as possible.

What about the fabric?

Nakata

We use an eco-friendly polyester fabric from Toray for the main wearables, offering excellent durability and comfort without clinging to the body. The bag is made from Teijin Frontier’s eco-friendly synthetic leather, originally intended for soccer balls and shoes. This reuse of otherwise discarded materials embodies the pavilion’s focus on sustainability.

  • A female model stands facing light coming from the left. She wears a cap, a lightweight charcoal gray scarf, and a vest. A bag hangs diagonally over her shoulder.
  • A portrait from the same series as the previous photo. Her chin slightly raised, the woman appears to almost smile. A bright, soft light illuminates the woman from the left.
  • A photo of the same woman as the previous photo, taken near the waist. A belt is tied around her waist, and a bag hangs down from her shoulder.
  • A photo taken from behind of the same woman as the previous photo. She wears a cap. The Japan Pavilion logo is found at the bottom on the backside of the cap.

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The weather from April to October can vary significantly. How did you address this?

Nakata

We ensured airflow by creating space between the fabric and the body, helping maintain a comfortable temperature. The pants, for example, have a straight silhouette that allows air circulation around the legs.

A male model stands with his back to a white wall. He wears a cap and has a bag hung diagonally from his shoulder. A lightweight gold scarf is tied around the bag.
A close-up near the side of the vest. There is a slit through which a belt can pass, and a belt comes out from the back toward the stomach.
A photo showing the feet of a model walking. The model wears tabi socks and traditional Japanese setta sandals.

The modern-style Japanese sandals and tabi socks are striking.

Nakata

They’re worn primarily during ceremonies. The sandals are a contemporary design from NEWBASIC, paired with tabi socks from Fukuske, a brand with over 140 years of history. They’re comfortable to wear and technologically refined, blending traditional Japanese style with modern functionality.

For this project, we added an elastic band around the ankle to ensure a secure fit that won’t slip off easily and remains comfortable. I proposed this idea based on the way setta are traditionally tied with cords during festivals. The simple look is another aspect I really like.

A female model stands in an abstract space. She wears a hat, a lightweight white scarf, a work vest, and tennis shoes. A bag hangs diagonally from her shoulder. The photo was taken from a considerable distance; the woman is only about one-third of the height of the photo.
A portrait of the same woman as the previous photo, taken from below and looking up at her. The sun shines through the openwork hat.

Were there any challenges in the production process?

Nakata

Creating shoes and hats was a bit challenging as it was my first time. I had to consider which accessories would align with the overall concept of the Japan Pavilion and my chosen theme. It took some trial and error to ensure consistency with the other items. The hats and caps made by Maxine were crafted from recycled washi paper yarn, giving them a textured look distinct from the main wear.

The Japan Pavilion is lined with wooden panels, so I felt that the natural, slightly rough texture of these materials would harmonize with the space. I think we achieved a set that is both functional and beautiful.

  • A close-up photo of a model in uniform, taken near the waist. A belt tied at the waist and a lightweight gold scarf tied around a bag hang gently.
  • A female model stands in front of a white wall. She wears a hat, a jacket, and traditional Japanese setta sandals. A bag hangs diagonally from her shoulder. A lightweight gold scarf is tied around the bag.
  • The same woman as in the previous photo, shot from the side, showing the shoulders up. She wears a hat with the brim folded up only at the back.
  • The same woman as the previous photo. She looks down slightly; her face is half hidden by the brim of the hat.

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What message would you like to convey to those wearing the uniforms?

Nakata

Expos attract a diverse range of visitors, so it’s essential for attendants to be instantly recognizable. The design may be subtle, but when worn as a complete set, the uniform creates a unique presence, blending harmony and statement. I hope it supports attendants as they work comfortably in the beautiful spaces of the Japan Pavilion, interacting warmly with visitors.

A male model stands in front of a white wall facing diagonally left and looking forward. He wears a hat, a lightweight white scarf, a jacket, and tennis shoes. A bag hangs diagonally from his shoulder.
A portrait of the same man as the previous photo showing the shoulders up. He faces diagonally to the right and seems to be smiling slightly. He wears a hat with the brim folded up at the back.

Finally, could you tell us your thoughts on Japanese aesthetics?

Nakata

Clothing is something we wear, so it’s important that it resonates not just through explanations or logic, but in the feeling of “this feels right” when someone puts it on. I hope each person judges with their own senses and interprets it freely.

In Japanese culture, there is a concept called mitate—the art of seeing one thing as another. Take, for example, the arrangement of stones in a Japanese garden. The creator arranges stones to represent something, and the viewer brings their own interpretation. This coexistence of the creator’s and viewer’s perceptions is essential. Although called a uniform, the Japan Pavilion’s attendant attire gains its presence through each wearer’s interpretation. Like the Japan Pavilion’s theme, “Between Lives,” I believe true beauty lies in having a strong core yet allowing for diverse interpretations, where each attendant and visitor finds their own meaning in it.

A photo of two hands holding a charcoal gray furoshiki cloth featuring the Japan Pavilion logo.
Photo of Yuya Nakata
Creative Director

Yuya Nakata

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